Visits to the Holy Mountain

An article written for Prospect magazine (St Mary Stoke Newington parish magazine)

A visit to Mt Athos in 1995

On Tuesday June 20th four pilgrims boarded a boat at Ouranopolis, a tiny holiday town in Halkidiki in Greece. It was a relief to be on the boat, because only a few minutes earlier we had finally been granted a ‘diamonitirion, the crucial document which allowed us to spend four days and three nights on the Holy Mountain of Athos. Athos is an autonomous, self-governing monastic state (although technically a part of Greece), occupying 333 square kilometres on a peninsula in eastern Greece. Since the 10th century this unique area has been occupied by Orthodox monks living in a monasteries or in smaller communities called sketes, or on their own as hermits. There are now twenty monasteries dotted about on the mountainous terrain, and life in these monasteries carries on almost unchanged since the 16th century. Some of them have electricity, but it is used mainly for purposes of work, and although in recent times rudimentary roads have been built to assist in the economic life of the area(forestry, olive farming, some crops), it is usual for pilgrims and monks to walk from monastery to monastery using the many paths and donkey tracks which criss-cross the peninsula.

The party of pilgrims in question consisted of my Greek American friend George Poulos, my Anglican clergyman uncle Richard Johnson and the Rev. Preb. Allan Scott, known to readers of this magazine. Our journey had been four months in the planning, and now at last the final bureaucratic hurdle was behind us. We stepped off the boat under a powerful noon-time Greek sun, adjusted our backpacks and set off through an olive grove on a steep hill, heading for the monastery of Konstamonitou, which we reached some two hours later. We were shown to the guest-room and greeted with the customary offering of a glass of deliciously cold water, a small cup of sweet coffee, a tiny glass of tsipuro, a fierce anis-flavoured liqueur and cube of loukoumi (Turkish delight) which we speculated might have been made in Stoke Newington! This is the perfect combination to revive a hot, dusty and tired traveller, and we were given a tour of the main church with its splendid frescoes and elaborate icons. Then came the bad news: owing to a storm earlier in the year, the path to Zographou, the next monastery on our route, was unpassable. After a brief rest, we returned to our starting point, ready to set off on an another unforgiving climb in the glaring heat of the Greek afternoon sun. God is kind to pilgrims, though, and we were offered a very unexpected lift on a truck which was making its painful way on the bumpy and steep road to the monastery.

All of the monasteries on the Holy Mountain are Orthodox. 17 of them are Greek and 3 are Slavic: one is Serbian, one is is Russian and one is Bulgarian. It will be appreciated that Allan Scott was especially determined to see Zographou, the Bulgarian one, and the rest of us were very happy to do so. Zographou is a huge monastery in a very imposing situation at the top of a river valley. It is currently rather short of monks: there are only a handful in residence. Again we were given the traditional welcome, and were shown to our sleeping quarters. Then we were summoned to the evening liturgy which began at 5.00pm and lasted until 7.00, at which point we were provided with a very basic but much needed evening meal, consisting mostly of thin lentil soup and hard, sour, bread. There was a short period of chat in the last light of the evening before the monastery doors closed at sundown and we all went to bed.

A typical monastic day begins at 3am with a call to prayers. The morning liturgy proper begins at 4.00 and carried on the 7.00am or later (depending on the day). Solemn chanting, the rustle of black-robed monks kissing the icons, the steady intoning of psalms, readings and prayers, and the click of the censers in the huge dark church makes a very solemn and impressive setting for the liturgy. There is nowhere to sit, except for the purposely uncomfortable misericords around the perimeter of the church, and lack of knowledge of the liturgy (not to mention the unknown language) can make attendance arduous and hard to sustain. The solemn and reverential atmosphere plus the almost palpable sense of a history of worship over the centuries cannot help but bring an awareness of God’s presence. After the service the monks may join together in a meal which is equivalent to out mid-day meal: at the monastery of Vatopedi we found ourselves eating pasta with squid and fresh green salad, accompanied by locally brewed wine, at 8.00am! After this meal the monks go off to their labours for the day, either working in the fields or carrying out repairs to the buildings. They gather again at 5.00pm for the evening liturgy, and are in bed by 9.00pm, ready to start the next day again at 3.00am. This simple and prayer-filled life is often accompanied through the day by the internal repetition of a prayer or mantra such as ‘Kyrie eleison’ or ‘Gospodi pomiluj.’

(unfinished)

Thoughts following the 2013 FOMA footpath clearance pilgrimage

I had been to Athos a number of times as an ordinary pilgrim, that is to say with a four-day diamonitirion which required me to spend a maximum of one night at each monastery on the pilgrimage. The FOMA path clearing pilgrimage provided a very welcome opportunity to spend a longer time at one or two monasteries, and to get to know more about orthodox monasticism at first hand.

I was not disappointed. FOMA contacts among the monks and the knowledge of fellow pilgrims – with in many cases years of experience and often a deep knowledge of orthodoxy – provided a forum in which questions could be asked and topics could be discussed. To a non-orthodox like me monastic orthodoxy at last seemed less closed, less forbidding, less impenetrable.

I had had my doubts and anxieties about the pilgrimage. Would I cope physically with the arduous business of clearing brush in the heat and mountainous conditions? How would I cope with a different diet and timetable for meals? Would I find time and space for reflection and for my own prayer life? How would I cope with two full weeks of all-male cheek-by-jowl living?

I need not have worried. From the first meeting with fellow-pilgrims at Gatwick I knew this was going to be a welcoming and congenial group of people with whom to spend two weeks. The communal living (at Vatopedi ten of us shared three interconnected rooms) was relaxed and easy, and the badinage was light-handed and amusing. The work was well-organised: yes, we all worked hard and put in a lot of hours in hot and tiring conditions, but it was all well within the capabilities of each of us. The food was plentiful and suited me very well, even if I had to revise my views of what I would ideally like for breakfast!
Perhaps the biggest challenge for me was finding space for private contemplation and prayer. This may seem odd in a monastic setting, but my impression is that privacy is discouraged in the cenobitic monastery. The monks of course pray the unceasing prayer as they go about their daily tasks, and the communal services are occasions for prayer. My experience during services, (from the permitted vantage point of the outer narthex), was of continuous coming and going and conversations which were not always hushed in tone. Not conducive to sustained reflection! Even when I found a quiet spot somewhere in the monastery grounds or guest quarters it was by no means guaranteed to be free of interruption (for example, some friendly Greek pilgrims, concerned by my solitude, pressed me to join them for coffee one morning, when I just need twenty minutes of silence). I reflected that perhaps if I were drawn to the monastic life it would be more towards the cell or small skete rather than to the communal discipline of the cenobion, but of course without experience of life lived in the former, I may be wrong about that.

Overall my experience on this pilgrimage was an overwhelmingly positive one. I hope very much to be able to join the path clearers next year or the one after, and I also feel a lot more confident about arranging my own visits to Athonite monasteries in the future.\
Michael Johnson

Athos footpath clearing report May 14-27 2016

In 2016 I was designated as a group leader, and I wrote these notes to form the basis of a report back at the end of the trip.

Our team (Peter Howarth, James Norman, Tom Fitzgerald, Michael Johnson) arrived at Koutloumousiou Saturday pm, settled in, went to Skete of St Andrew, attended vespers and trapeza at Koutloumousiou.

Sunday May 15. Given tour of catholicon at St Andrew by Fr Nicodimos, met yesterday. Back to Koutloumousiou, collected tools from Fr Socrates, did inventory of them. Did check of first part of Karyes-Vatopedi path, then after some difficulties found Kellion of Axion Estin where we paid a social visit on behalf of FOMA. We were well received and shown around by Fr Philoumenos, although it seems we were not expected. We left a copy of the map. They are grateful for support from FOMA which is needed for the restoration of a barn/outbuilding which is in a very poor state of repair. I have a photo of the kellion if anyone is interested. We returned to Koutloumousiou for vespers and trapeza and were joined by Roland Baetens. After compline the team members had a long chat (with tea and cakes) with Fr Grigorios.

Monday May 16. Peter and Roland set off for Philotheou to check the path and visit Bob Alison. James, Tom and Michael took the path to Iviron, checking the description and doing clearing in some places. We also took GPS waymarks for the description. The path is in very good shape. We then walked the path to Kaliagra. The initial part of the path is not well signed, as evidenced by some German pilgrims who had taken the road for the first stretch. We did some clearing but again the path is in good shape. At the Koutloumousiou Arsanas we missed the FP entrance and had to double back. The entrance is problematic and the first part is very overgrown and needs attention. The description needs changing because a path to a Kellion has been opened which confuses matters. We carried along the full length of the path, but encountered a number of problems. Clearing work next to the path had resulted in many treetops obstructing the path, and we spent time clearing a good number of them. The junctions of path and track/road are messy, and at least one sign is missing. There are some very overgrown parts, one of which is potentially dangerous. Wild boar have churned up large parts of it, making walking unpleasant. All in all a ‘dog of a path’ evidently not used much, and if it were not for the interests of Koutloumoussiou and Fr G we would recommend that it should be removed from Foma’s list of supported paths.

It turned out that we had been expected for lunch back at the monastery, and we had to soothe some ruffled feathers. We attended vespers and trapeza, and again after compline we had a long and very pleasant chat with Fr G.

Tuesday May 17. Peter and Roland had Epistasia business and then retrieved the first aid kit from Prof Ilias (Fr Philemon). James, Tom and Michael set off in light rain to start deeper work on the Kaliagra path. We worked back from the bridge over the stream to the track near Sk Kout. We made sure we were back at the monastery for lunch! We had a quiet afternoon and attended vespers and trapeza.

Wednesday May 18. Thunderstorm overnight and heavy rain resulted in staying at the monastery. An opportunity to catch up on paperwork! Rain ceased 1ish, Peter and I set off to check Vatopedi path as far as Pantocrator road. Did some heavy cutting at a turn off point. Path was generally in good order. Had been well cleared with a strimmer below Kelion Ag Nicolaos. Also a new track joins the kalderimi a bit further on and this will need a sign in due course. About 900m on Karyes side of Pantocrator road.

Thursday May 19. Breakfast at 7, set off promptly for more work on Kaliagra path. Did heavy work beyond bridge, cutting through dense briars and shrubbery, restoring path to good width. Carried on down towards road, did some heavy clearing, cleared a fallen tree below sign, and did a fair amount of marking with tape, including marks on hazardous barbed wire at sign (Fr Grigorios has been told about the wire). There was one mishap when I inadvertently put the tip of my scythe into a water pipe. We did a temporary patch and informed Fr Grigorios and Fr Socrates.

Friday May 20. Set off shortly after 7, did more work on Kaliagra path. Put up three signs, one new and two replacements. Worked down as far as Arsanas. This path is now accessible and reasonably clear along its length. A couple of parts will need re-doing next year because of fast growth, esp brambles. Were given a lift back to monastery by truck sent by Fr Grigorios for late lunch. After trapeza we spoke to Fr Grigorios and were given a tour of the frescos in the trapeza.

Saturday May 21. Heavy rain. Did a complete inventory of tools. After compline had an audience with Fr Chrisostomos, returned today from lecturing in the UK.

Sunday May 22. Eucharistic liturgy, followed by trapeza, followed by social with nameday observance for Fr Christopheros. Joined by team from Grand Lavra. Karyes for lift to Vatopedi. Settled onto Vatopedi, chat with Fr Matthew after trapeza.

Monday May 23. Dropped off at path under Chera, team divided. Peter Howarth and John McCormack did 250m towards Zographou, then did path back down to monastery. All OK, latter in good condition. Peter Doll, John Mole, Tom F and Michael J put up two signs to help find Vatopedi path (photos and coordinates to follow). Then worked south along ridge path to point where Constamonitou path joins from right. Much of path is OK, somewhat overgrown but accessible, but there are significant stretches (where forestry in past has removed shade cover over path) where it was a heavy slog for the team with bramble thickets, broom, thorn bushes, etc. We cleared the path sufficiently for access, but it needs attention next year. Ridge path from Ag Dimitrios to Chera should be given priority next year. It’s a pity that the location is somewhat inaccessible because it could do with a strimming job by the monastery. I have mentioned this to Fr Matthew.

Tuesday May 24. Team was given ride by Giorgos to point near ridge cross as recommended. Peter D and I went up to ridge path and worked down. There is a very overgrown section on either side of the road drop-off point. John McC, John M and Tom F worked down the path, with an especially commendable job done by John McC with a scythe for about 50m starting at the track crossing. From that point on the path is in generally good condition and although we put in some heavy work in a few sections, it probably doesn’t need attention again along the whole length next year. Fr Matthew hiked up from the monastery with treats, meeting us at the lunch break, which was very well received!

Wednesday May 25. Whole team except Ephraim were dropped off below the ‘white gate’. Heavy clearing at point where path (Vatopedi-Pantokrator) leaves track. Several hard patches on the way (brambles, broom, lianas, etc), mixed with very reasonable lengths. After a difficult start team worked well and settled into a leapfrog routine which worked reasonably well. We worked until about 150m beyond junction with Bogoroditsa path. We then walked remaining path to Pantokrator, which was generally in good condition, although with a few areas which could do with attention. We had a lift back to Vatopedi with Costas.

Thursday May 26. Given lift by Giorgos to ridge path/broken lorry/Ag Dimitrios. We put up a sign to Vatopedi near Ag Dimitrios (abandoned kellion), but there was no text/transfer for Ag Dimitrios. There is a need for a Vatopedi sign where the track emerges onto the ridge, but it will need a post since there are no suitable trees. The two signs requested on the sheet are therefore not in place and in any case the Vatopedi sign must point left, not right.

The path as forewarned was very heavily overgrown for a considerable distance and required several hours of determined work. We fought our way through bramble patches and eventually got onto the forest path, which is beautiful. We ran out of time though and it needs attention on the part between the remarkable shrine-in-a-tree and the exit near Stavros Makrigenos.

Two members of our team were ‘bitten’ by ticks in the second week and treated by the infirmary at Vatopedi. A recommendation for the future is that in the initial briefing the team members should be encouraged to check themselves for ticks every time they return from the paths and told what action to take if one is found (essentially not to try to pull them out without proper care).

Diary entries for 2018 visit

LONDON – OURANOUPOLIS
May 5. Sat. Didn’t sleep well. Up at 3.30. Shower, walked to terminal, checked in to Easyjet flight. Long queue to buy stuff at Pret. 3 hour flight to Thassaloniki. Journey to Ouranopolis by coach. Stayed at Akrathos Beach Hotel. Very much a resort with loud music and French ‘animations’. Odd place to start a pilgrimage! Bruefing for leaders and group as a whole, supper, chat. Shared room with Guernsey John Maccormack. Loud music till 11. Then a t-storm.

May 6. Sun. Up at 6.50. Meditated, packed, breakfast, all down to Ouranopolis by minibus. Coffees etc. Ferry, debarked at Giovanitsa, minibus to Hilandar. Welcomed on traditional way, shown to room. Explored monastery, rain started. Group of us decided to walk to Esphigmenou. Rain held off. Took a wrong turn, went to Skete of Ag Vasilis, then climbed pirgo nearby. Back to monastery, chat for a while. Then vespers at 5, followed by trapeza. Sat around in kiosk, chatted. Bed 9.45ish. Slept fairly well.

May 7. Mon. Up just before 6. Church to meditate. Met team, went to workers’ breakfast place at 7 as instructed only to be told we should have been there at 6! Given bag of bread, eggs and small amount of processed cheese. Set off on track to Zographou, did quite a lot of clearing. Stopped for picnic lunch at 12. Some of us went on Hil/Zog boundary. Then back down to Hil. Shower (cold!). Read, dozed. Vespers at 5, followed by trapeza (a sort of fava). Then walked with Fergus and Phil to Esphigmenou, found Fr Misail and arranged transport for tomorrow. Given lift back in Landrover. Bed. T-storm during night.

May 8. Tue. Up 5.45. Meditated. Breakfast of Fr toast and yog. Collected by Esphigmenou landrover, taken to bottom of Ridge Path. Some question as to exact location. Eventually set off, walked to Hera, cleared path in return direction. Collected at same place, lift back to Hilandar. Washed smalls, shower, had nap. Feeling headachy. Vespers and trapeza, chatted, read. Sleep early.

May 9. Wed. Up at 5.15, breakfast of sardines at 5.45, collected by Fr Misael at 6, driven back to Ridge Path. Worked intensively with water breaks and lunch break 11ish. Given lift back again by Fr Misail. Hilander before 2. Shower, admin. Washed shirt. Attended vespers, trapeza, up hill with Costas and Fergus to contact Dimitris. Read, sleep in good time.

May 10. Thu. Up at 5.15 again, breakfast at 5.45, lift at 6. Team split, I walked paths back to Hilandar with Theo, doing tidying along the route. Had picnic up by Serbian phone signal point. Got back 11.30ish, were invited to archontariki for usual libations. Cleared out water-logged pack, shower (cold!), did some clothes washing. Walked to cypress grove and spent some very peaceful time there meditating and reading. Back to monastery, report back from team, admin. Big t-storm. Rain over by vespers, trapeza, spoke to Fr Moisis with Ivan about paths. Then up hill to phone Andrew B. Back to monastery, read, lights out 9.30 ish.

May 11. Fri. Up at 5.15, breakfast at 5.45, lift to Esphigmenou at 6. Walked up path in drizzle, worked back from top. Quite heavy going in places. Stops for water and lunch. Finished 2ish by which time sun was out. Had coffee at archontariki at Esphigmenou. Then given lift back to Hilandar. Shower, admin, vespers. Sat around in room, chatted with Fergus and Phil, had honey on fresh bread given to us by monks at Esphigmenou. There was a vigil for St Basil of Ostrog starting at 9. Another t-storm struck at 9. I finally went at 9.30 with an umbrella. Lots of people, very solemn atmosphere. Back to room 10.15ish.

May 12. Sat. Up at 6.15. Big eucharistic service 7 to 9 in honour of St Basil. Then a big breakfast feast in trapeza, with chanting, censing, kolivia, etc. About 180 people, filling the space entirely. Finished around 10.30. Back to room, did tools inventory. Then set off with team to walk to Esphigmenou. Hot day. Bought honey and prayer rope. Climbed to chapel of St Antoni to see hermit cave, but missed it. Walked with Kosta to arsanas of Hilandar and along beach. Walked back with Kosta and Phil. Had cold shower, then to Vespers and trapeza. Ivan arranged a visit to see icon treasures, mostly 14th century and a climb of St Saba tower. Did first aid kit inventory, did some packing, read. Rain.

May 13. Sun. Up at 6.15, packed, took my things to gate house. Decided to climb hill to phone Andrew re tools transfer. Caught in light rainstorm. Then back to room, Ivan helped me to take tools to gate house. Went to service. At 9 left service, given an advance breakfast in trapeza annex. Caught full bus to Giovanitsa. Ferry to Dafni. Fr Matthew from Vatopedi gave me a lift to Karyes, met David and John, the other team members. Got installed in small guest house outside monastery walls. Went to archontariki to announce ourselves. Walk to St Andrew and back. Went into monastery for Vespers and trapeza (John and I in annex). Waited around and had satisfying chat with Fr Chrisostomos. Then back to room. Had tsipuro with John and David and a cup of hot water. Bed 9ish to read. Felt v cold during night, ended up with 3 blankets!

May 14. Mon. Up at 6. Meditated in monastery courtyard. Breakfast of fried eggs in annex, then off to work. Walked half of Kou-Phil route, then worked back in a disciplined way. Good teamwork. Got back to quarters after 3. Shower. Read a bit. Attended vespers, supper in trapeza annex. Back to catholicon for compline. Then to quarters. David kindly took me through the intricacies of vespers. Did some smalls washing, back to monastery to hang it in drying room. Admin.

May 15. Tue. Meditated in the church, breakfast of tomatoes, olive oil, cilantro, onions and big omelette. Then worked path to Vatopedi. Finished quite early, visited ruined Russian skete. Back to monastery, worked on Kar-Phil path behind monastery. Hard work, hot. Had lunch back at guest quarters. Then back to complete path behind monastery. Finished 2.30ish, had shower. Admin. Then into Karyes with David and John for a frappe. Monastery for Vespers and trapeza, invited for first time into main refectory. Read, chat, etc. Bed to read, sleep 10ish.

May 16. Wed. Up before 6. Hot water. Meditated in catholikon. Breakfast (fried potatoes. They weren’t expecting us!). Did path down to Iviron. Made side trip to K Panagouda. Were greeted there by a Fr Isaias, who invited us in to see the chapel and gave us gifts of icons. Had lunch behind an outbuilding outside Iviron. Went into monastery, venerated famous ‘Portaritsa’ icon. Told by guest master that a bus to Karyes was leaving in 10 mins. John v tired, so we caught it. Had coffee in Karyes. Back to monastery, shower, did load of washing. Admin on zenonas balcony. Then to Little Vespers followed by soup supper. Preparation for vigil for Feast of the Ascension. Back to zenonas, read, t-storm threatened. Back for vigil at 8, stayed until 9.15. Bed, read.

May 17. Thu. Raining, but brightened up. Down to church 6.45ish. Liturgy for Ascension. Fr Chrisostomos came up to me after the litury and gave me the ‘antidoron’, very touched by this. Followed by feast meal in trapeza. Then a gathering in the ‘sitting room’ with coffee and tsipuro. Walked with David and John to kellion of Axion Estin. Greeted and shown around by Fr Isidor. Then a visit to kellion of Ag Theofilos. Had a picnic by a stream. Then long climb up to St Andrew and back to xenonas. Did tools and first aid inventory. Vespers, trapeza. Spoke to Fr Socrates. Went for walk up hill behind Karyes. Spent time on balcony chatting and having a glass of ouzo. Bed lateish.

May 18. Fri. Meditated, breakfast at monastery. Set off to do path by Bourazeri down to Stavronikita. Put up signs along the way, did clearing. Had lunch on side path. Then to Stavronikita, given usual welcome and shown catolikon. Tried to get a taxi back but chap at office in Karyes was unhelpful. Waited around and John eventually got a lift with some Russians. David and I set off to walk back in blazing sun. 1.5 hours uphill! Got back in time to meditate, attend Vespers and trapeza. Back to room to pack up tools and return them to Fr Socrates. Waited around to say goodbye to Fr Chrisostomos. Back to zenonas, did some packing. Party with team, Cypriot guys and Giorgos. Bed lateish.

May 19. Sat. Up 7ish. Meditated. Out for a tiropitta. Finished packing. Went to monastery to receive goodbye gifts. Then to join scrum for bus to Dafni. Frappe in Dafni, wider team gathers, sail to Ouranopolis on Bassos K. Coach to Thessaloniki, going via Stavros. Check into hotel Vergina, sharing with David Johnson, complete paperwork, shave beard off, have a shower. Meet team for beers and feedback session. Supper, out with Russians Andrei and Ivan to find seafood restaurant. Went to one nearby, octopus and squid etc. Walk into town and back. To bed, read.